The Fuji Rock Festival is an annual music festival held at the end of July in Japan, absolutely nowhere near Mount Fuji. The first festival in 1997 was indeed held at the foothills of Fujiyama, hence the name, but it turned out to be quite calamitous. In 1999, the festival found its permanent home at the Naeba Ski Resort on the eastern slope of Mount Takenoko in Yuzawa, Niigata Prefecture.
I went to the festival for the first time this year, and am writing this guide really for the me that got off the bus from Shinjuku and immediately wanted to get back on. If I had known then what I know now, maybe it wouldn't have had to be so hard.
FIRST THINGS FIRST: LET'S TALK ABOUT THE WEATHER
A quick Google will reveal that: "The climate in Niigata City is characterized by its high humidity and strong winds from the Sea of Japan... Niigata City does receive much precipitation, mostly in the form of rainfall. On average, Niigata City has 269 days of precipitation each year, about 170 days of which see rain or snowfall measuring over 1 mm. The rainy season in July brings large amounts of rain..."
Which brings us to the first thing that you need to know about the Fuji Rock Festival: Be prepared for rain. Even when the sun is out and about, the weather can turn at any time.
Weather predictions on Wednesday (24 July), Thursday (25 July), and Friday (26 July), the day of the festival. The forecast on Thursday turned out to be the most accurate. It was rainy and windy on Friday, typhoon-level rainy without wind on Saturday, and cloudy with some light rain on Sunday and Monday.
The truth is that if you are prepared for it and accept that you will be a bit damp most of the time, it really isn't too bad. I actually preferred the rain to the heat and didn't mind hanging out in a downpour.
Sat next to this guy for a good part of the first day. Never got his name. He was passed out most of the time.
THE LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG AND WINDING ROAD
The second thing that you need to know is that everything is FAR. And by FAR, I mean FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRR. I cannot exaggerate this enough.
Recorded steps on Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, when I left the festival, took the bus back to Tokyo and then boarded a plane for Manila - on Garmin vívosmart 4. (If you're on Garmin Connect, please feel free to connect with me. Am there as TangerineChick.)
I actually really don't mind walking. It's lugging heavy things around while walking long distances that I do.
On the second day of the festival, I didn't even go the festival, but I logged almost 30,000 steps on my fitness tracker anyway. The bulk of those steps were recorded from about 3 AM to 5 AM, when I went to see Nicola Cruz at the Red Marquee (- he was on the lineup for the first day of the festival so, technically, I did not see any acts listed for the second day), and then from 6 PM to midnight, when I hung out at a bar outside the festival grounds.
The rest of the time, I mostly stayed at the tent, with the occasional foray to the toilets. Except that the toilets were about a kilometre or so away.
I should have realised how big the site was when I tried to print the festival site map and only about a quarter of the map would print.
No wonder I was eating like a crazy person at the end of every evening. All that walking made me ravenous!
Re the festival food, I wasn't into it. But I may be in the minority on this. The only thing I liked was this cured pork belly by the campsite. It was amazing. The one in the photo above just looked good but wasn't really. Average cost per dish was 600 to 800 yen.
TICKETS AND ACCOMMODATIONS
As with most festivals, the earlier you book, the better. Tickets for Fuji Rock are cheaper when they are first released around February/March. More options for accommodations are also available. For instance, apparently, there was a glamping option and an option to camp at the Pyramid Garden, a flat area by the south entrance, that sold out early.
The Prince Hotels runs the Naeba Ski Resort, but accommodations at the resort are primarily reserved for Japanese, as are the neighbouring hotels, and there seems to be some complex bid for rooms anyway. I did meet some gaijin who were staying at one of these hotels, but they had been going to the festival for years and knew the organisers so, unless you are part of this elite crowd, you're camping with the rest of us.
You could try booking hotels along the bus route but, depending on which acts you want to catch and what time they are on, and given how far everything already is within the festival, I can only imagine that this can be quite the proverbial pain in the hoo-ha.
I booked a three-day festival pass, a campsite pass, rented a four-man tent, and booked slots on the direct bus from Shinjuku to the festival and back.
What would I do differently? If getting a room at any of the nearby hotels is absolutely out of the question, I would book the same, but will book the first bus on the day before the festival, to have a better pick of where to set-up on the campsite. I arrived on the first bus on the first day of the festival, and every flat surface was already taken.
Re the Pyramid Garden, while the glamping option sounds tempting, especially since you arrive at a tent that is already set-up on level ground, my friends' tent flooded. Plus the Pyramid Garden is the farthest campsite from the festival, which means that it is probably quieter but, yeah, too effin' far for me.
The bus ride from Shinjuku direct to the festival was pretty painless. Until we got to the festival. Bear in mind that as foreigners, our options are limited. I had to get my ticket via a website called Gan-Ban, which meant that, while the Japanese entered the festival through the south entrance by the Pyramid Garden, I had to walk about a kilometre out to get my wristband at the Gan-Ban booth. I had been duly warned about the rain, but was not warned enough about how far everything was, and I was not prepared to walk that far with all my luggage. It nearly killed me. When I finally rocked up to the booth and they handed me the tent and the mattress, I almost burst into tears. I had to beg the campsite volunteers to let me park my bags at their station so that I could find a place to set-up my tent. If they hadn't agreed (- and it took them quite a while, with a lot of back and forth among themselves and a declaration from me that I wouldn't hold them responsible if anything went missing, before they relented), I probably would have gone straight home.
Oh, and if I thought it was better to go through the Pyramid Garden and the south exit to get to the campsite, it wasn't, as I found out at the end of the festival when I had to lug all my stuff from the campsite back to the bus.
HOT TIP ON LUGGAGE: Bring your wheels! Forget the backpack. You will want to DIE. I know I did. Especially since I didn't bring a proper backpack. The one I brought was really carry-on luggage that could be carried as a backpack but isn't supposed to be used as a backpack. And because I had vacuum-packed all my stuff into plastic bags, I could fit more things into the bag. (Hard lesson learned: Just because you can fit more stuff in your bag doesn't mean that you should. Reduced volume does not equal reduced weight.) The bag nearly took my shoulders out. I swear as soon as I got off the bus and had to carry all my stuff, I was ready to admit defeat and leave.
TIPS ON CHOOSING A CAMPSITE
First of all, having an idea of how big a space your tent will occupy will help. (The tent rental is a four-man Captain Stag tent. I have no idea what its dimensions are but, if you do, then you might want to bring a metric steel tape to figure out if it can fit in certain spots that may look too small. And, if you are alone, be sure there are people on site to help you set up as I do not think it is possible to erect this particular tent alone.)
Second, as soon as you find a flat space, occupy it post haste, even if it seems too close to the other tents or the road or whatever. Because if you don't get that spot, somebody else will.
The ideal spot is a flat but elevated surface. Don't camp too low because if there is a deluge, the lowest part of the campsite is guaranteed to flood. Oh, and if you can find anything that fits this description near the Red Gate, that would be best. The Red Gate (open from 9:15 AM to midnight) is the closest access from the campsite to the festival. Do not camp at the Red Gate itself as this area gets really muddy and is right next to toilets. Expect it to be very noisy though.
TIPS ON CAMPING ON AN INCLINE
Yeah, you're fucked. No matter how big your tent is, most of it will be useless as gravity will ensure that everything you have, including your self, will end up at the lowest part of the tent. So while my four-man tent seemed to be too much space for one, it was actually just right for me. My bags took up half of the lowest part, and I took up the other half.
One thing to remember when camping on an incline is to set up the tent so that you enter the tent from the side and not from the front. I had the "door" of the tent facing the front, which meant that its back was exposed and water dripped in through the zippers. I couldn't - and did not want - to reorient the tent, so I put garbage bags over the zippers and, thankfully, there wasn't any wind and the bags held in place and kept the water out.
This is the official Fuji Rock tent rental. You can see how, at this angle, the rain cover protects the front of the tent but leaves its backside exposed. That was where the water was coming in. If I had oriented the tent horizontally it would have been fine. The tent comes with a Captain Stag "mattress", which, even though it wouldn't stay in place and kept sliding down, I found useful. I actually didn't need the sleeping bag because of the mattress.
UNPACKING TIPS
Because I had the luxury of space, I managed to unpack by segregating my stuff into big, thick, clear plastic bags that I got from my mom, using the following categories:
- things for sleeping
- things for the bathroom + First Aid kit
- dirty clothes
- footwear (shoes, sock, gaiters)
- food
I kept my passport and electronics secure in a dry bag. Everything else, I left in my luggage, which I wrapped in a big, black garbage bag.
The bag that the tent came in became my maintenance bag. It contained the hammer that came with the tent, extra garbage bags, clothes hangers, clips and carabiners. Keep in mind that all of these, except for the hammer, should also be encased in plastic. I kept this maintenance bag closest to me.
HOT TIP: Make sure that you are in the tent for one big downpour so that you know how it holds up and if it needs any reinforcement. Mine actually held up the first night. It was after I readjusted some pegs the next day that the tent started to leak. It's a good thing I was in the tent when this happened and was able to fix the problem before heading out.
WHAT TO WEAR
- Rain boots. When choosing rain boots, style over substance is NOT the way to go. You have to be pragmatic. You will need a pair that "seals" at the top to keep as much of the rain out.
The selection at Tokyu Hands. WBSJ stands for Wild Bird Society of Japan. It was a popular choice at the festival.
I found cheaper boots at Don Quijote (a.k.a. Donki).
Because I had my hiking boots with me (left photo), I borrowed gaiters from Rosan, which served me well after the drunken night that I dumped my rain boots in the mud and they were too wet to wear the next day. Gaiters protect shoes from mud and rain. (Second and third photos: Internet file photos.)
Be sure to wear proper socks or risk getting blisters. I only had ankle socks and, consequently, got more blisters during the three days that I was at Fuji Rock than I did in 30 days on the Camino de Santiago.
- Rain coat. Umbrellas are not allowed at the festival, especially near the stage. Your choice of rain gear will depend on what kind of bag you intend to take to the festival. If you have a backpack, you might want to go with a poncho so that it can slip easily over the backpack. Because I went with a bag that fit like a holster, plus a small dry bag, I could wear a short rain coat over them. The advantage of a short raincoat is that it can double as a jacket in the evening, when it gets a bit cooler.
- Rain pants. You only put these on when the rain gets heavy. They will keep your legs dry and mud-free, and keep the rain from getting in your boots. Of course, putting them on will require sitting down and removing your shoes, which is one of the reasons why your gear should include the next item.
- A portable chair/stool. Yes, this is part of your outfit. I wasn't exaggerating about how far things are, and the only seat you will find anywhere is the one that you bring. According to the festival rules, the chairs are not allowed at the Red Marquee and Blue Galaxy (covered areas where DJs play). So like the idiot-good girl that I am, I went back to my tent to drop off my stool before going to party at the Red Marquee, only to find all these people camped over there with their chairs.
My Stool Sample. I had borrowed another folding stool from a friend when I found that my mom had two of these. They were very light and packed conveniently into my current favourite shopping bag. (Internet file photo.)
This oversized bag made of straw sacks and discarded saris was a last-minute impulse purchase when I was in Arugam Bay in Sri Lanka in 2016. I immediately regretted it, believing it would only get stored and never see the light of day. Until I discovered how useful it is. It is easy to sling across the body; it's a great shopping bag, and it is big enough to stuff coats and scarves in - and stools as it would turn out to be - so, now, I travel with it everywhere. (Left photo: Taipei, 2018. Right photo: Ephesus, 2019)
If you don't have a similar bag, a luggage strap - one that is much longer than the one in the photo below - should work just fine. I actually had one of them with me in case I needed it, but the bag worked out just fine, and was ideal for stuffing my rain gear when they were not in use.
Internet file photo.
- A hat. I don't know why I assume that everyone knows this but, apparently, it isn't common knowledge: Raincoats work best with, not only a visor, but with a full cap underneath. How else are you supposed to see???
Internet file photo.
The cap needs a sturdy visor that can withstand the rain and keep it out of your eyes. The cap itself is to keep your head dry, whether you have your raincoat on or not. This will keep you from getting sick. You will also need the cap to protect you from the sun. And for bad hair days which, for me, was every day.
Hatless Chiqui at Fuji Rock 2011.
Also, with a good cap, sunglasses are unnecessary. I only used my sunnies for the walk to the showers. Didn't make sense to wear a hat to the showers.
My hat of choice was a red PVC baker boy hat. (Internet file photo.)
- Summer festival clothes. Bear in mind that when it isn't raining, it is HOT and humid. I noticed that people preferred to get a little bit wet in the rain than swelter in their rain gear. Most people waited until the rain got stronger to put on their coats.
Apart from the outfit you are already wearing to the festival, if you are staying for the entire festival, bring three more changes of clothes, including what you plan to wear going home. For girls, I suggest something to wear to sleep that you can also wear around the tent. I had a tunic that I also wore to and from the shower.
- Sunblock. If you're prone to sunburn, do it. I haven't worn sunblock in years, but my Brit neighbour lay in the grass in between our tents for a few hours and, without knowing it, roasted in the sun. Don't let it happen to you. Seriously.
OTHER THINGS TO BRING
- Sleeping bag. I didn't really need it and was okay with just sleeping on the mat that came with the tent, but it did come in handy one night when I used it as a blanket.
- Travel pillow. Since travel pillows can be bulky, alternatives for pillows are: the unpacked sleeping bag, or your clothes stuffed into a pillow case.
- Eye mask and ear plugs.
My ear plug of choice. They are wax and mold to your ear canal. They came in handy during the Camino and, now, I always stock up on these when I am in France. (Internet file photo.)
- Flip flops. To wear around the tent and in the shower. Going without any in a public shower is just wrong. (Hot tip for showering: The queues are at their longest in the morning. Best time to shower is in the afternoon. Forget it at night, unless the rain and the cold don't bother you. Although the showers are piping hot. It's like a freakin' sauna in there.)
- A toiletry kit that you can hang, which will contain:
-
- A small towel. You really should make peace with not washing your hair while you are at the festival, and leave the shampoo and conditioner behind. (You can always hide your hair under your hat anyway.) You seriously do not want to spend more time in the shower than you absolutely have to. It is oppressively hot and is really kinda disgusting. They are what I imagine prison showers must look like, with only thin pieces of fabric separating the stalls, while others watch you openly while they wait. So, yes, leave your big bath towel at home. A small towel is enough to wipe off.
- Soap in a soap container. Or liquid soap.
- Deodorant/anti-perspirant.
- A wide-toothed comb and a small mirror. To make sure you still look human.
- Toothbrush and toothpaste. I recommend bringing these in your festival bag when you go out so that you can brush you teeth before going back to your tent and calling it a night. To have to retrieve these and go back to the shower area just to brush your teeth is way too much of a trek. And, depending on how much booze you've had, you will want to keep as much drinking water with you at night and not waste what you have brushing your teeth by your tent, which I did on the first night.
- Water bottle.
I got this awesome cross-body water bottle carrier at Wonderfruit, which is really handy at festivals.
FYI, the sinks beside the toilets are also the water refill stations. <shudder>
- Head lamp. Be sure to take it with you when you go out.
- Hangers. I recommend bringing two to three hangers. You will need them to dry or air your clothes.
- Carabiners and clothes pins. For the same reason that you need hangers.
I borrowed these carabiners from my dad and put them to good use, hanging stuff inside the tent.
When the sun comes out, it is almost impossible to sleep, so mornings are usually for drying clothes, airing out the tent and reinforcing it.
If the heat of the sun doesn't wake you up, the chatter from the tents certainly will.
- Hydrating facial mist. I picked up a big can of it at Donki and shared it with the neighbours when it got really hot in the tents.
- Garbage bags / Clear plastic bags / Zip-loc bags / Dry bags. Be vigilant and secure all your stuff in plastic or dry bags. Make sure that they are sealed properly before leaving your tent. I brought two dry bags: a small one for the festival, and a bigger one where I kept my passport, Philippine money, and electronics, which I left in the tent.
- Fully charged power banks. I had three. One, I used for my phone; the other, for the rental pocket WiFi; and the third, I only needed when the two ran low on the way home. Keep your electronics and chargers in a dry bag.
- Snacks. The queues for food can be long, so bring some nibbles to tide you over. I had some trail mix with almonds, cashews, and pistachios. I also had some chocolate. I also snacked on them at the camp, and shared them with the neighbours.
- Pocket tissues and hand sanitiser. I didn't really use the tissues, but I definitely needed the hand sanitiser. I kept it hanging off the dry bag that I took to the festival.
- Anti-bug spray (- I got mine at Donki) and insect repellant. I would advise spraying the inside of the tent thoroughly before heading out. There are a lot of bugs around. I never used the insect repellant, but I shared this and the bug spray with my neighbours.
- A First-Aid Kit containing disinfectant (- I usually go with hydrogen peroxide), cotton, plaster strips of varying sizes. If you have Compeed, I suggest putting them where your shoes are rubbing the wrong way to prevent blisters.
- Something unique to mark your tent so that you don't end up entering somebody else's tent by mistake. I had a rubber chicken.
- A small rag. It comes with the Gan-Ban loot bag and will come in handy wiping off mud, wiping down the tent mattress, etc. I also had a sponge to mop up any water that got into the tent but, since I was alone in the tent, I managed to get the water out without using the sponge. (I turned my tent inside out at every opportunity.)
The Fuji Rock Festival was an extreme experience. It was... um... character building. Like I need more character. God knows I have enough character to produce my own Disney movie.
But I made some new friends, got to watch some pretty cool acts, danced in the rain, stomped in the mud, cried when Robert Smith walked onstage and, all in all, had a pretty good time. At the end of the day, if you can laugh at it all and enjoy the music, you might just be crazy enough to do it again.
(Photos above and below.) If you ever have a chance to catch The Chemical Brothers live, do it. They are nothing short of phenomenal. What an experience.
Robert Smith and The Cure. I have loved you for so long.
On the left: Me, Tom, Ally, and Cam, from the UK and HK. On the right: Me and family friend, Anna, who has been going to Fuji Rock for the past five years.