Desperate Measures

Myanmar: The Photos

Here are the links:

Day 1:  Yangon

Day 2:  Bagan

Day 3:  Bagan (The Hightlights Tour)

Day 4:  Bagan (The Sunset Cruise)

Day 5:  Inle Lake

Day 6:  Inle Lake (The Highlights Tour)

Day 7:  Yangon

Gai's Quick Guide to Myanmar

Things are changing very quickly in Myanmar and this guide may be obsolete by tomorrow.  But if you are relying on the 2011 edition of the Lonely Planet guide to Myanmar, there are some things in here that you will need to know.  Please note that I am only including the details of contacts that cannot be found in the Lonely Planet or on the internet.

CONNECTIVITY

First of all, international roaming is now possible on a network called MM900.  But, for now, it only works for calls and not for text messages.  WiFi is sloooooooow.

MONEY MATTERS

Cash is still king in Myanmar.  Yes, bring crisp, unmarked dollar bills.  And, should you pay in dollars at a market, be sure to show the vendor the quality of your bills.  One vendor returned to us with a frayed bill, kicking up a fuss that our money wasn't any good.  We had no way of proving that it wasn't ours so we had to take it and replace it with another bill.  The bill, of course, will be accepted anywhere else in the world, but just be aware that this can happen.

The black market is no longer the place to exchange dollars.  Now, the best place to change money is with the banks, and 1000 kyat is worth more than one dollar (which, at most, fetches 982 kyat) so most services and goods are now priced in kyat.  We only encountered dollar prices with the airlines, five-star hotels, and factories that also export their products abroad.  So, yes, change money at the airport bank in Yangon, which is most likely to have a better rate than provincial banks.

We didn't know this when we flew in and tried to change money with our hotel in Yangon, but they wouldn't do it.  We asked at a restaurant and they wouldn't do it either.  We ended up paying too much for everything until we finally managed to change money at the airport in Bagan.  (If you need to change money at the Nyaung-U airport, when you exit customs, there's a bank where all the tourists queue, but across the table where they collect tourist fees for the Archaeological Zone, there is another table that does money exchange.  There are no queues there and they offer K1 more than the bank.)  

The best rate that we got was K981 to the dollar.  The lowest rate we got from a bank was K974.  Kyats are paid out mostly in one and five thousand notes.

When we ran out of kyats at one restaurant and tried to pay in dollars, we were told that they had a very low exchange rate (K700 = $1).  It's a good thing there was a Burmese travel agent seated at the next table who was a regular at the restaurant.  Our waiter asked if she would change our money and she gave us a rate of  K900 to the dollar.

TRANSPORTATION

I totally recommend flying with Air Mandalay.  They were very quick to reply to my email and confirm our flights.  They sent someone to our hotel with our air tickets (which we paid for in cash) when we arrived in Yangon, even though it was after office hours.  But what I liked most about Air Mandalay was that they were very lenient about our baggage allowance, something that we are very grateful for.

Some things to know:  They use the same planes that Cebu Pacific flies to Siargao, so entry/exit is from the rear of the plane, which is also where the lone lavatory is located.  They only assign seats flying out of Yangon; elsewhere, it's free seating.  Snacks are served flying to and from Yangon; otherwise, they only serve drinks.  Oh, and two out of the three flights we took were delayed.

There are no metered taxis in Myanmar. You have to agree on a rate with the driver before going anywhere.  Following were the going rates when we were there.

Yangon:

• From the airport to anywhere near the Shwedagon Paya - K7000 (We paid $10 because we didn't know any better and we contracted a cab from inside the airport.  It's best to get a cab outside the airport.)
• From the airport to the city center - K8000
• Sule Paya to The Strand - K1500
• The Strand to The Governor's Residence - K2000

Bagan

• From the Nyaung-U airport to the Archaeological Zone - K6000
• Whole day car and driver (no guide) - K35000
• Bicycles - K2000 half day, K3000 whole day
• Horse cart - K3000 short distances, one way, but the drivers prefer to quote a round-trip price
• Sunset cruise - K12000 one hour; K15000 for over an hour

Inle Lake

• From the Heho airport to Nyaung Shwe - K25000
• From Nyaung Shwe to Paramount Inle Resort (about 40 minutes) - K15000
• Whole day lake tour - K30000

 ENTRANCE FEES

• Shwedagon Paya - US$8
• Bagan Archaeological Zone - $15
• Inle Lake - $10

WHAT TO WEAR

At the temples, bare shoulders and knees are definitely a no-no, for women and men.  Even in modern Yangon, men and women still dress conservatively, often wearing the tradtional longyi (or what we know as a malong) so be mindful of this and try not to dress too provocatively.

Bagan is hot and dusty so be sure to wear a hat, sunglasses and, if the dust bothers you, you may want to consider a dust mask or something similar.

Inle Lake is definitely much cooler than Yangon or Bagan.  You'll feel the change of temperature as soon as you land in Heho.  Bring a scarf and jacket, especially for the boat trip.  You'll also need that hat.  And lip balm!

Wear sandals or flip-flips so that you can remove them easily when you get to temple grounds.

SHOPPING TIPS

• Don't buy at the first shop you see.  Especially at the temple markets in Bagan.  You'll see the same items for sale almost everywhere.  Walk around and compare prices.
• Walking away also gets you better bargains.  If you walk away, the vendor will usually follow you around with a better offer.
• If you are quoted, say, 150,000 kyats for something, its real price will hover around 50,000 kyats.
• Bring your credit card to the big laquerware shops in Bagan and the weaving factories at Inle Lake.

YANGON

We only stayed in Yangon on our way in and on our way out.

On our way in, we arrived at night so I booked a hotel near the Shwedagon Paya that I absolutely cannot recommend.  It's not likely that you'll stumble upon it anyway as it isn't in any of the guidebooks.  (It was a recommendation from someone from the Thorn Tree forums years ago.)

Shwedagon Paya

Shwedagon Paya is best visited at sunrise or after sundown when it is all lit up.  There are four entrances (north, south, east and west).  We got a guide (K8000) who, unfortunately, took us up to the pagoda via an elevator.  I suggest taking the scenic route - and having a bit of exercise - by taking the stairs.

Afterwards, we ate at Aung Thukha, Lonely Planet's Top Choice for eating "Outside City Centre".  It was a turo-turo ("turo" is the Tagalog word for "point"; there's a selection of food at a counter where you point out what you want).  There was a strong, foul smell as we entered but we quickly got used to it and, after a while, didn't notice it at all.  We ordered a selection of curries and the food probably would have been better had it been heated, but it's wasn't bad and was a good introduction to Burmese food.

We invited our guide, Soewin (English name:  Ivan) to eat with us.  This spread, including an extra serving of rice, a plate of lahpet thoke, a beer and a soda, cost K11800, but they charged us US$15.

On our way out, we arrived in the afternoon and I booked the May Shan Hotel for its location by the Sule Paya.  If you can't get the rooms with the view (701 and 601) then you're better off booking elsewhere as I hear its other rooms are small and windowless.  Our room was big but had a tiny bathroom where you could do everything you need while seated on the porcelain throne.  Its breakfast was just toast and eggs.

The view from Room 701 of the May Shan Hotel.  From left to right:  Yangon City Hall, The Supreme Court Bulding, and the Sule Paya.

While waiting for our room to become available, we headed for the nearest teahouse for some, um, tea.  Although Thone Pan Hla is the starting point for Lonely Planet's walking tour, it was surprisingly and refreshingly tourist-free (apart from us).  I loved it!  I could have sat there for hours, drinking tea with condensed milk and eating the snacks set out on tables, while watching the locals go about their business.

We abandoned the idea of doing the walking tour because of the heat, although I did walk to the Bogyoke Aung San Market on my own while Nicolas siesta-ed.

While crossing the street, I got to talking to a man who very kindly pointed out buildings to me while he rushed to a meeting.  Before parting ways, I learned that he was with the Ministry of Finance.

I liked the walk there because of all the street food along the way and at the market itself.  The Burmese are very friendly and offered me free tastes of their wares. We had already done all our shopping in Bagan and at the lake so I really didn't need to buy any thing, but I still got myself an unsewn men's longyi (K4500).

Man in a longyi.  Dhammayangyi, Bagan Archaeological Zone.

In the evening, we had drinks at The Governor's Residence, which is definitely worth a look-see.

View of The Governor's Residence's pool from the upstairs bar.

I had initially made reservations for the Myanmar curry buffet but Nicolas balked at its K48000 price tag so I cancelled it.  But, when we got there, he changed his mind and we had the most excellent meal.  Their duck curry was to die for!  I must say that I enjoyed their meat curries (duck and tea leaves, mutton and potato, pork and mango, and chicken and sweet corn) more than the seafood ones (soft shell crab, shrimp, fish).  The salads and desserts were interesting, but I didn't care much for the soups and the skewers.  So, yes, it was pricey for the most succulent duck curry ever but I still dream about it so, for me, it was worth it.  The buffet also comes with unlimited beer but, seriously, how much beer and curry can one possibly have?  (I am now kicking myself for choosing this time to be reasonable about my food.  Doh!)

Note that The Governor's Residence discourages credit card payments.

We had after-dinner drinks at The Strand because we wanted to check out the hotel but it paled in comparison to The Governor's Residence and can be struck off one's itinerary.

BAGAN

We spent three nights in Bagan, although you can pretty much do the "highlights" tour in one day.  There are thousands of temples in Bagan so you really have to choose a few that you want to see before you get all templed out.   My recommendations are the following:

• Sinpyagu

View from Sinpyagu.

• Thatbyinnyu - Just take photos outside.
• Ananda Pahto
• Sulamani Pahto
• Dhammayangyi Temple
• Shwesandaw Paya - Go at around 4:30 in the afternoon and leave just before the busloads of tourists start arriving for the temple's famed sunset views.  Although the paya itself, with its crowded pyramid of tourists, actually makes for a really good photo.

Our sunset cruise started at the foot of Bupaya.

On our last day, we did a sunset cruise on the Irrawaddy River (a.k.a. the Ayeyarwady).  I booked it for 4 PM for one hour.  Cost was K12000 but the owner informed us that sunset was much later so, for an extra K3000, we could stay out till after sunset.  What we didn't know was that the boat would take us up to a certain point, after which, it would cut its engine and we'd sit, surrounded by other boatloads of tourists, till sunset.  Nicolas and I got bored of it very quickly and asked the boatman to turn back (- that was K3000 wasted) and watched the sun set instead from the riverside bar of our hotel with a few cocktails.  (We stayed at the Bagan Thande Hotel, which was nicely situated by the river in the Archaeological Zone, but it was rather old and dated, although it still had a charming colonial air about it.  Food was so-so, but I did like the mohinga that they served for breakfast.)

For food, I recommend The Moon Restaurant (Be Kind to Animals).  It's full of tourists and service can be slow but the food is worth it, and I say this from the point of view of someone who is definitely not vegetarian.  Stand-outs, for me, were the lentil soup with lime and ginger - which ruined all other lentil soups for me - and the tamarind shake.

We mistakenly ate at Sarabha II Restaurant when I really meant to eat at Sarabha III.  Sarabha II seems to be a popular tourist bus stop, but I must say that they had the best butter fish curry (K4500) that I had in Myanmar.  It was better than the one that I had at the lake and the one at The Governor's Residence in Yangon.

In New Bagan, we ate at The Black Bamboo.  The beef curry (K5000) was just okay (- one serving is good for two) but it's worth going to just for the homemade vanilla ice cream with caramelized cashew nuts (K2000).  That was awesome.  (Don't bother with the chocolate version.)

We were in New Bagan to check out the laquerware shops but they turned out to be too touristy.  Our driver took us to the much quieter Lotus Laquerware Factory, where we learned to appreciate what goes into the art of creating laquerware.  Not that I actually understood anything, but I now know that a lot of work goes into it.  And I did get the hsun-ok that I've always wanted.  Yay!

Hsun-ok, Buddhist offering bowls, at Inle Lake.

In Nyaung-U, Nicolas and I bought these beautiful umbrellas that will look great by the pool in Siargao.  At the shop, a good-sized personal umbrella - made of cotton, not paper - cost K19000, but I did some canvassing and you can get one at the markets for K12000.

But you don't really need to go very far to do any shopping in Bagan.  The temples double as market places.  Sometimes, you'll find vendors right at the foot of the Buddha, where, oddly enough, they won't allow you to take pictures but they won't mind selling you something.  They're shrewd too.  They'll strike up conversations and then hit you for a sale.  They're very persistent so it can all get quite tedious.

The most efficient way to explore Bagan, albeit the most unromantic, is with a car and driver.  While you may want to ride a bicycle or - godforbid - walk around the Archaeological Zone, remember that you'll be hot, sweaty and gross by the time you get to the temples.  A horse cart is quaint but is slow going.  

• Royal Border Taxi Service:  Contact Aung at (09) 402-753-329 or Zay Zay at (09) 259-011-103
• Lotus Lacquerware Factory:  (K. 7 Nayatheinkha Qr., Kayay Rd. (opposite Lawkanat Hotel), New Bagan; (0-95) 61-65372; [email protected]

INLE LAKE

We spent two nights here but, like Bagan, you can do a "highlights tour" in one day.

The day tour started with a foray to the Ywama market, which Nicolas and I loved.  It isn't as touristy as the Lonely Planet makes it sound and there were a lot of locals buying stuff at the market too.  We also visited local craftsmen's shops (weavers, black smiths, cigar rollers, silver smiths) and wandered around the village of Inthein (a.k.a. Indein) and its stupas.

The long-neck women weavers of the Kayan tribe.

The most touristy stop on the tour was - get ready for it - the Jumping Cat Monastery, where monks supposedly make cats jump through hoops.  It was rather late when we got there and the monks weren't in the mood to entertain.  The tourists hung about waiting for a show, taking ridiculous photos of cats, while the monks drank tea and looked like they just wanted everyone to go away.  Needless to say, Nicolas and I didn't hang around very long.

We liked our Inle Lake experience more than Bagan because we got a better insight into the life and culture around the lake than we did in Bagan.  In Bagan, our interaction with the locals was limited to the vendors at the temple markets.  At the lake, we got to observe life around the lake.  While we did the touristy stuff, it didn't feel touristy at all.

Most tourists supposedly stay in the town of Nyaung Shwe rather than on the lake.  The only advantage I see to this is that one would have more choices when it comes to where to eat, unlike if you stay on the lake, you're pretty much stuck where you are.  (We weren't impressed by Paramount Inle Resort's food, but they did serve a good breakfast.)

While they were a lot of restaurants on the lake, it's not like there are taxi boats that you can randomly hail to take you around.  Although I really don't think that anyone staying on the lake would be in much of a mood for larking about after sunset in the cold and dark.

It is most likely that the same boat that brought you in from town will be the same boat you will take on the lake tour and the same boat that will bring you back to town on your way out.

• Shwe Inn Thar Boat & Car Rental, No. 90 Phaung Daw Pyan Rd., 3 Block, Win Qtr., Nyaung Shwe; (0-81) 20-9372; [email protected], [email protected]